Frequently asked questions
- how often should I change my oil ?
Current industry standards recommend changing your oil every 7,500 miles on most late model (2000 model year and newer) vehicles. We have recently encountered, factory recommended maintenance schedules that stretch out the oil change intervals to 10,000 miles; when special synthetic oils are required by the Manufacture. Most owner’s manuals stipulate different (more frequent) maintenance schedules based on “driving conditions”, such as, dirty or dusty conditions, extreme hot or cold weather, stop and go driving or trailer towing. Most of us actually fall into three of the four categories during our normal driving conditions, thus increasing the frequency of our oil changed recommendations (3,000 - 5,000 is typical).
When answering this question we must also discuss oil types. Standard petroleum based oils typically have, “additive packages” that are designed to sustain 3,000 miles of normal operation and heat cycles before breaking down. Many of the newer Semi-Synthetic or Synthetic oils, have additive packages that are designed to go well past the recommended duration as recommended by the Manufacture. At this point oil contamination caused from condensation, dust and unburned hydrocarbons becomes the concern and oil replacement is required.
There are a couple downsides to developing habits of extended oil changes.
First and foremost, many cars that we service come in the door for an oil change/vehicle inspection, (100 - 3,000) miles OVER or PAST the normally scheduled oil change interval of (3,000 - 7,500) miles; making the actual oil change interval 6,000 - 10,500 miles. All cars consume oil and as they age and the oil consumption rate typically increases over time. Most cars and light trucks require between 4 - 7 quarts of oil. If a vehicles oil consumption increases over time to a quart every (1,500 – 2,000) miles. You can see how the vehicle may not actually make it to the next oil change, without running dangerously low on oil. I think we can all agree, most people never open the hood of their cars and take the initiative to check or add oil as needed. At this point, we can only hope the vehicle is equipped with low oil level and/or low oil pressure sensors, that are functioning as designed and provide ample notice to allow the driver to correct the low oil concern; prior to major engine damage.
Secondly, a professional oil change typically includes a vehicle inspection. In many cases, this inspection may be the only time a skilled technician may lay his or her hands and eyes on your car. A basic oil change and vehicle inspection should be viewed as, a “check-up” for your car, much like the annual physical that more “mature” adults encounter annually. During the inspection process the car should be inspected from front to back and the results should be clearly presented to the client. We use photos and a digital inspection process, to provide clear and understandable reasons for the recommendations made in our shop. It is OK to “question” the inspection results and demand explanations for any and all recommendations, that may be made during your vehicles inspection. Remember it is your money the shop is spending and it is their responsibility to provide “value” for every dollar taken from you.
When answering this question we must also discuss oil types. Standard petroleum based oils typically have, “additive packages” that are designed to sustain 3,000 miles of normal operation and heat cycles before breaking down. Many of the newer Semi-Synthetic or Synthetic oils, have additive packages that are designed to go well past the recommended duration as recommended by the Manufacture. At this point oil contamination caused from condensation, dust and unburned hydrocarbons becomes the concern and oil replacement is required.
There are a couple downsides to developing habits of extended oil changes.
First and foremost, many cars that we service come in the door for an oil change/vehicle inspection, (100 - 3,000) miles OVER or PAST the normally scheduled oil change interval of (3,000 - 7,500) miles; making the actual oil change interval 6,000 - 10,500 miles. All cars consume oil and as they age and the oil consumption rate typically increases over time. Most cars and light trucks require between 4 - 7 quarts of oil. If a vehicles oil consumption increases over time to a quart every (1,500 – 2,000) miles. You can see how the vehicle may not actually make it to the next oil change, without running dangerously low on oil. I think we can all agree, most people never open the hood of their cars and take the initiative to check or add oil as needed. At this point, we can only hope the vehicle is equipped with low oil level and/or low oil pressure sensors, that are functioning as designed and provide ample notice to allow the driver to correct the low oil concern; prior to major engine damage.
Secondly, a professional oil change typically includes a vehicle inspection. In many cases, this inspection may be the only time a skilled technician may lay his or her hands and eyes on your car. A basic oil change and vehicle inspection should be viewed as, a “check-up” for your car, much like the annual physical that more “mature” adults encounter annually. During the inspection process the car should be inspected from front to back and the results should be clearly presented to the client. We use photos and a digital inspection process, to provide clear and understandable reasons for the recommendations made in our shop. It is OK to “question” the inspection results and demand explanations for any and all recommendations, that may be made during your vehicles inspection. Remember it is your money the shop is spending and it is their responsibility to provide “value” for every dollar taken from you.
- My "check engine light is on", what should I do ?
Your vehicle's (CEL) Check Engine Light, also called the (SES) Service Engine Soon, or (MIL) Malfunction Indicator Light can actually mean many different things to a driver. Since the inception of the required OBD II diagnostics in 1996; your vehicle's check engine light will be turned on by the computer anytime a potential emission related concern has been detected. The purpose of this is, to notify the driver of a potential problem. An illuminated (CEL) can literally indicate several types of concerns, from a loose or missing gas cap, to a major engine or transmission failure. The (CEL) is typically amber in color and just as a traffic light means “proceed with caution”. A flashing (CEL) indicates the vehicle can be operated for a short distance, however, damage to an emission related component may occur.
It is important to note, that any type of RED warning light such as, “Low Oil Pressure or Low Oil Level”, “Brake Light” or “Temperature Light”; means you need to stop the vehicle immediately to prevent major damage or injury.
It is important to note, that any type of RED warning light such as, “Low Oil Pressure or Low Oil Level”, “Brake Light” or “Temperature Light”; means you need to stop the vehicle immediately to prevent major damage or injury.
- Is it a good idea to shop around for estimates when having your car repaired ?
This is a question we hear on a very regular basis. In most cases, we typically avoid providing estimates over the phone. Basically a phone estimate is really a “guess” or an “educated guess” at best. The first problem that is encountered is, "does the vehicle actually need the repair or service the client is requesting"? "Will this actually take care of the issue" and lastly, IF NOT, "who’s responsibility is it to absorb the incorrect diagnosis"? The clients or the shops?
Some of the other variables that are encountered when “price shopping” or providing phone estimates, is the actual accuracy of the estimate. Typically there are many specific details that must be addressed, to provide an estimate that is FAIR for both parties. Details such as engine size, emission or computer strategy codes, gear ratios, Manufacture production dates, optional equipment etc…….Phone estimates can also vary drastically because, some shops will provide the lowest estimate possible, in an attempt to “get you in the door”. They may leave out additional charges such as taxes, freight, shop supplies, environmental fees or even diagnosis and testing time, that they intend to charge on the final estimate. Phone estimates will also vary based on the type and quality of the parts used and the warranty provided with parts as sourced by the repair shop.
We encourage our client’s to ask questions to understand all charges and go with a shop that has a proven track record, employs professionals, has an A rating with the Better Business Bureau, good reputation in the community and has good online ratings. You will find these shops know the difference between right and wrong and you will always receive the value you deserve.
Some of the other variables that are encountered when “price shopping” or providing phone estimates, is the actual accuracy of the estimate. Typically there are many specific details that must be addressed, to provide an estimate that is FAIR for both parties. Details such as engine size, emission or computer strategy codes, gear ratios, Manufacture production dates, optional equipment etc…….Phone estimates can also vary drastically because, some shops will provide the lowest estimate possible, in an attempt to “get you in the door”. They may leave out additional charges such as taxes, freight, shop supplies, environmental fees or even diagnosis and testing time, that they intend to charge on the final estimate. Phone estimates will also vary based on the type and quality of the parts used and the warranty provided with parts as sourced by the repair shop.
We encourage our client’s to ask questions to understand all charges and go with a shop that has a proven track record, employs professionals, has an A rating with the Better Business Bureau, good reputation in the community and has good online ratings. You will find these shops know the difference between right and wrong and you will always receive the value you deserve.
- Does my car need an alignment and how often should it need an alignment ?
The best way to determine this is to answer a few questions about how the car drives, then ask someone qualified to “read” your tires to determine if you may need an alignment.
First - does it constantly “pull or drift” to the left or right while driving?
Second - is the steering wheel positioned in the center while driving straight down the road (as it was when the car was new).
Third - does the vehicle “wander and weave” down the road requiring you to constantly “steer” to stay in your designated lane.
Lastly - “reading the tires”. If one tire is wearing more than the others, your car requires an alignment. If you tires are wearing more on the inside or outside edges your car requires an alignment. If your tires are “worn unevenly” your car requires an alignment.
Basically a vehicle will not have a “vibration” or “shake” that is caused from an alignment issue. These types of symptoms are typically related to tire, wheel or driveline issues.
Any vehicle that is checked for an alignment concern, or has alignment adjustments made, should have the suspension inspected first. This determines if the vehicle is safe and verifies that the adjustments made will actually hold position, benefiting you in the long run. Just like any other repair, it is a good idea to ask questions and ask for a printout of the alignment results, both beginning (prior to making adjustments) and after (after making adjustments).
First - does it constantly “pull or drift” to the left or right while driving?
Second - is the steering wheel positioned in the center while driving straight down the road (as it was when the car was new).
Third - does the vehicle “wander and weave” down the road requiring you to constantly “steer” to stay in your designated lane.
Lastly - “reading the tires”. If one tire is wearing more than the others, your car requires an alignment. If you tires are wearing more on the inside or outside edges your car requires an alignment. If your tires are “worn unevenly” your car requires an alignment.
Basically a vehicle will not have a “vibration” or “shake” that is caused from an alignment issue. These types of symptoms are typically related to tire, wheel or driveline issues.
Any vehicle that is checked for an alignment concern, or has alignment adjustments made, should have the suspension inspected first. This determines if the vehicle is safe and verifies that the adjustments made will actually hold position, benefiting you in the long run. Just like any other repair, it is a good idea to ask questions and ask for a printout of the alignment results, both beginning (prior to making adjustments) and after (after making adjustments).
- WHY IS IT A GOOD IDEA TO DRIVE ON A FULL TANK OF GAS AS OPPOSED TO HALF A TANK OR A NEAR EMPTY TANK ?
There are three good reasons to plan your travels and fill ups so you drive on the “top side” of the fuel tank as opposed to the “bottom side” of the fuel tank.
First, most modern EFI (electronic fuel injected) vehicles use “hi pressure” fuel systems and the electronic supply pumps are typically mounted inside the fuel tank. It is no secret that heat is one of the greatest enemies to electronic components and in this case; the electric motors used in most electronic fuel pump assemblies. When the pumps remain submerged in a large volume of gasoline, the gasoline actually functions as a coolant and removes the unwanted extra heat from the fuel pump. This reduction in operating temperature increases the overall life of the fuel pump and decreases the possibility/frequency of fuel pump failures over the life of your vehicle.
Secondly, depending on the age of your vehicle and the material used in the construction of your vehicle’s fuel tank (typically steel, aluminum or plastic/composite), condensation can occur on the inside of your fuel tank that is not covered in liquid fuel. The condensation adds moisture content to the fuel and if the tank is steel (most older pre 1996 vehicles), it will increase the rate of inner tank corrosion/rust that enters your vehicle’s fuel system.
Lastly, when we make it a practice to operate our vehicles on the “top side” of the tank, our vehicles are typically “fueled-up” and ready for an emergency trip should something arise unexpectedly that requires immediate travel.
First, most modern EFI (electronic fuel injected) vehicles use “hi pressure” fuel systems and the electronic supply pumps are typically mounted inside the fuel tank. It is no secret that heat is one of the greatest enemies to electronic components and in this case; the electric motors used in most electronic fuel pump assemblies. When the pumps remain submerged in a large volume of gasoline, the gasoline actually functions as a coolant and removes the unwanted extra heat from the fuel pump. This reduction in operating temperature increases the overall life of the fuel pump and decreases the possibility/frequency of fuel pump failures over the life of your vehicle.
Secondly, depending on the age of your vehicle and the material used in the construction of your vehicle’s fuel tank (typically steel, aluminum or plastic/composite), condensation can occur on the inside of your fuel tank that is not covered in liquid fuel. The condensation adds moisture content to the fuel and if the tank is steel (most older pre 1996 vehicles), it will increase the rate of inner tank corrosion/rust that enters your vehicle’s fuel system.
Lastly, when we make it a practice to operate our vehicles on the “top side” of the tank, our vehicles are typically “fueled-up” and ready for an emergency trip should something arise unexpectedly that requires immediate travel.
- WHY IS IT A bad idea to "bring your own parts" when having your car repaired or serviced ?
We find that it is usually a “bad idea” for a client to supply their own parts and/or ask a repair shop to install the parts that they have purchased “over the counter” or “online”.
The first and MOST IMPORTANT reason that we discourage clients from supplying parts, is the lack of warranty that may arise when the installed part fails. When the customer supplies the parts and materials used to perform a repair or service, the shop is placed into a “third party” position should a part failure occur. The opposite is true if the shop supplies the parts and materials used to repair and/or service your vehicle. All reputable shops have at least a (12/12 warranty) twelve month or twelve thousand miles on the work they perform. Our work typically carries a nationwide two year or twenty four thousand mile parts and labor warranty, while some repairs have a three year or one hundred thousand mile warranty.
The second issue that tends to arise is the proper fitment of the part. In many cases, the incorrect part has been supplied and now the vehicle is “stuck on the rack” causing the shop’s schedule and technician to have unexpected down time. This affects the ability to manage the commitments made to the other clients for that day.
Finally, because the quality of replacement parts varies drastically, it is usually to your benefit to allow the professionals and the vendors they trust, to supply the parts that represent the very best value as opposed to the least expensive option. Remember the old saying in life, “You Get What You Pay For”.
The first and MOST IMPORTANT reason that we discourage clients from supplying parts, is the lack of warranty that may arise when the installed part fails. When the customer supplies the parts and materials used to perform a repair or service, the shop is placed into a “third party” position should a part failure occur. The opposite is true if the shop supplies the parts and materials used to repair and/or service your vehicle. All reputable shops have at least a (12/12 warranty) twelve month or twelve thousand miles on the work they perform. Our work typically carries a nationwide two year or twenty four thousand mile parts and labor warranty, while some repairs have a three year or one hundred thousand mile warranty.
The second issue that tends to arise is the proper fitment of the part. In many cases, the incorrect part has been supplied and now the vehicle is “stuck on the rack” causing the shop’s schedule and technician to have unexpected down time. This affects the ability to manage the commitments made to the other clients for that day.
Finally, because the quality of replacement parts varies drastically, it is usually to your benefit to allow the professionals and the vendors they trust, to supply the parts that represent the very best value as opposed to the least expensive option. Remember the old saying in life, “You Get What You Pay For”.
- Do I Fix It, Dump It or Trade It In ?
This is a question that we seem to encounter frequently, if not daily, when our clients are faced with the expense of a major repair, or large expense of several smaller repairs. Statistics indicate that most people are keeping their vehicles longer than ever. The age and mileage of the average car driven in the US continues to increase, with the average now over 10 years and 100K miles. This statistic has been achieved mostly due to the higher quality vehicles manufactured in conjunction with good maintenance and driving habits.
This question is loaded with many caveats and variables, such as: are we discussing a basic commuter car, classic car, sports car or a diesel work truck. Vehicles falling into each of these categories all have different values and replacement costs. In answering this question, we must always factor in the history of the vehicle in question and include an overall inspection of the vehicle. An inspection may not reveal every potential issue that may arise in the future, but a thorough inspection performed by a qualified Technician will provide a good and detailed description of the vehicle in it’s entirety.
When providing guidance and advice to this question, we typically consider the fact that we can replace just about every major component on most cars or light trucks, for less than the price of tax/license plates on newer vehicles. In addition, we give thought to the overall replacement value of the vehicle.
When it comes down to numbers, we like to use a basic math formula applied to the fact that any reliable vehicle is worth at least $300.00/month to own, drive and depend on for daily use. Sports cars, Luxury cars, Large SUVs, Diesel ¾ Ton and 1 Ton trucks are worth more; maybe as much as $500.00-$600.00/month. Using these figures, we look at the immediate repair cost plus the cost of any other obvious issues, then apply simple math to assist with a sound and good decision to the question; “Do I Fix It, Dump It or Trade It In”. Using this philosophy, if the repair cost totals around $1,800.00 and upon inspection, the vehicle appears to have at least six months (and hopefully more) left in it’s life, the vehicle is most likely worth repairing. Following this logic if you are able to drive the car (after an $1,800.00 repair) for six months than you have reaped the benefits of your investment. Should you drive it another 10 months without additional investment you are money ahead.
Lastly, let’s discuss the human factor. Is it time to replace the vehicle because you want to, or is it time to change the type of vehicle you drive because your life has changed. These questions can only be answered by the individual client; however, we are here to assist you any way we can. Desert Automotive has a Wholesale Dealers License, which allows us to help with New Car purchases or the ability to offer you a fair and reasonable amount for your “trade in”. Desert Automotive has a great working relationship with all the local “New and Used Car Dealers” as well as, Dealerships through out the state and beyond.
This question is loaded with many caveats and variables, such as: are we discussing a basic commuter car, classic car, sports car or a diesel work truck. Vehicles falling into each of these categories all have different values and replacement costs. In answering this question, we must always factor in the history of the vehicle in question and include an overall inspection of the vehicle. An inspection may not reveal every potential issue that may arise in the future, but a thorough inspection performed by a qualified Technician will provide a good and detailed description of the vehicle in it’s entirety.
When providing guidance and advice to this question, we typically consider the fact that we can replace just about every major component on most cars or light trucks, for less than the price of tax/license plates on newer vehicles. In addition, we give thought to the overall replacement value of the vehicle.
When it comes down to numbers, we like to use a basic math formula applied to the fact that any reliable vehicle is worth at least $300.00/month to own, drive and depend on for daily use. Sports cars, Luxury cars, Large SUVs, Diesel ¾ Ton and 1 Ton trucks are worth more; maybe as much as $500.00-$600.00/month. Using these figures, we look at the immediate repair cost plus the cost of any other obvious issues, then apply simple math to assist with a sound and good decision to the question; “Do I Fix It, Dump It or Trade It In”. Using this philosophy, if the repair cost totals around $1,800.00 and upon inspection, the vehicle appears to have at least six months (and hopefully more) left in it’s life, the vehicle is most likely worth repairing. Following this logic if you are able to drive the car (after an $1,800.00 repair) for six months than you have reaped the benefits of your investment. Should you drive it another 10 months without additional investment you are money ahead.
Lastly, let’s discuss the human factor. Is it time to replace the vehicle because you want to, or is it time to change the type of vehicle you drive because your life has changed. These questions can only be answered by the individual client; however, we are here to assist you any way we can. Desert Automotive has a Wholesale Dealers License, which allows us to help with New Car purchases or the ability to offer you a fair and reasonable amount for your “trade in”. Desert Automotive has a great working relationship with all the local “New and Used Car Dealers” as well as, Dealerships through out the state and beyond.
- How Do I Find a Good Repair Facility That is Competent, Capable and Trustworthy ?
First and FOREMOST, you should ask your family and friends who performs their services. Nothing trumps personal experience and “word of mouth” referrals!
Secondly, you can research current reviews online and check with the local BBB (Better Business Bureau). After obtaining the name or names it is a good idea to drive by the shop and size them up for yourself. You should ask yourself the following basic questions: Start by taking a look at the facility, does it demonstrate the “pride of ownership” you are comfortable with? Does the facility appear to offer the environment to meet your vehicle’s needs and provide a safe home, should your vehicle stay overnight or for an extended period of time? Does the shop appear busy, or are they sitting at the counter “waiting for the next victim”? What kind of vehicles are in the parking lot, are those vehicles similar to yours? Do the vehicles appear to be in process, or does the parking lot resemble a junk yard? If you feel comfortable with what you see, then it’s time to stop in and gain a little face time with the staff or send an inquiry via email. This will determine how you “feel about the shop”. We welcome future clients to stop in for a “meet and greet” or a “shop tour”. We are frequently “interviewed” by prospective clients and welcome the opportunity to meet other members of the community.
Our entire staff understands that we are in the people business, we just happen to be automotive experts. Desert Automotive also knows and understands our limits, we are professional enough to refer you elsewhere if we are not the best suited for your needs. Our list of trusted Automotive specialists is extensive and we have close working relationship with all of them. We will not steer you wrong.
If you are in need of a shop outside the immediate Sierra Vista or Cochise County area, we can assist you with that. We have many affiliations with Automotive Professional Associations and relationships with our Vendors; we frequently provide referrals to our clients and their family. Please feel free to call or email if a referral is needed. It also helps to add the vehicle information and services required so we can “point you in the right direction”. We are not “padding our pockets” with these referrals, only providing honest and straight-forward advise. Feel free to inquire any time!
Secondly, you can research current reviews online and check with the local BBB (Better Business Bureau). After obtaining the name or names it is a good idea to drive by the shop and size them up for yourself. You should ask yourself the following basic questions: Start by taking a look at the facility, does it demonstrate the “pride of ownership” you are comfortable with? Does the facility appear to offer the environment to meet your vehicle’s needs and provide a safe home, should your vehicle stay overnight or for an extended period of time? Does the shop appear busy, or are they sitting at the counter “waiting for the next victim”? What kind of vehicles are in the parking lot, are those vehicles similar to yours? Do the vehicles appear to be in process, or does the parking lot resemble a junk yard? If you feel comfortable with what you see, then it’s time to stop in and gain a little face time with the staff or send an inquiry via email. This will determine how you “feel about the shop”. We welcome future clients to stop in for a “meet and greet” or a “shop tour”. We are frequently “interviewed” by prospective clients and welcome the opportunity to meet other members of the community.
Our entire staff understands that we are in the people business, we just happen to be automotive experts. Desert Automotive also knows and understands our limits, we are professional enough to refer you elsewhere if we are not the best suited for your needs. Our list of trusted Automotive specialists is extensive and we have close working relationship with all of them. We will not steer you wrong.
If you are in need of a shop outside the immediate Sierra Vista or Cochise County area, we can assist you with that. We have many affiliations with Automotive Professional Associations and relationships with our Vendors; we frequently provide referrals to our clients and their family. Please feel free to call or email if a referral is needed. It also helps to add the vehicle information and services required so we can “point you in the right direction”. We are not “padding our pockets” with these referrals, only providing honest and straight-forward advise. Feel free to inquire any time!
- HOW DO I improve my vehicle's fuel mileage ?
This question can be broken down into two different answers:
First: Driving habits tend to have the largest influence on fuel consumption. If you don’t agree switch vehicles with your “grandmother” or the little old lady down the street and compare the efficiency of a couple tanks against your driving. The results most likely will surprise you.
First: Driving habits tend to have the largest influence on fuel consumption. If you don’t agree switch vehicles with your “grandmother” or the little old lady down the street and compare the efficiency of a couple tanks against your driving. The results most likely will surprise you.
- Avoid running the A/C when possible, however when driving at higher speeds opening your windows will also create greater “drag” and reduce the aerodynamic effect designed into your “late model” vehicle. Not encouraging you to be uncomfortable just providing the facts.
- Don’t allow your engine to idle for extended periods of time. Limit your engine “warm-ups” in the winter time. Late model vehicle are designed to warm up and operate efficiently within a just a few seconds.
- Avoid high speeds (HaHa). We know this is almost impossible to resist, but studies have proven that we can gain up to 15% in fuel efficiency driving 65 mph as opposed to 75 mph.
- Don’t throttle the gas and brake pedal abruptly. Sudden changes in speeds consumes more fuel than gradual changes. Remember what they taught us in drivers education back in the day, “drive like you have an egg between your foot and each of the pedals (throttle and brake)”.
- Consolidate your daily trips and errands to reduce your driving. This just requires a little common sense and foresight but is usually easy to achieve.
- Use Overdrive, get your vehicle into higher gears as soon as possible (without lugging the engine down). This reduction in engine RPM equates to less fuel required to feed your engine.
- Keep your tires properly inflated and your vehicle properly aligned. This will decrease the “rolling resistance” of your vehicle. We like to encourage running the tires at the max inflation on the tire as opposed to the door jamb recommendation, however this higher pressure typically reduces the overall ride quality slightly in exchange for less rolling resistance and less tire wear. Either recommended pressure (the max pressure on the tire or the pressure displayed on the door jamb sticker) will work BUT, low pressure = reduced rolling efficiency and fuel mileage.
- Keep your vehicle maintained. It’s best to follow the owner’s manual with regards to scheduled maintenance. Regular inspections performed during your scheduled services can also prevent “unknown” issues from occurring. Things like worn spark plugs and transmission problems can contribute to reduced fuel efficiency.
- Keep your filters clean. Restricted air filter & fuel filters will reduce the efficiency of your vehicle.
- Keep your oil changed and topped off. Use a hi-quality semi or full synthetic oil and make sure to keep the oil level near the top. Modern vehicles typically require smaller amounts of oil (example; 4 quarts for cars, 5 quarts for gas truck & SUV and the oil also acts as a coolant for the engines bearings and components. It is important that the engines run at the proper temperature (oil and coolant) to stay efficient.
- Lastly, Clean your vehicle. Many of us have extra junk in the trunk that adds weight to our vehicles. More weight = more fuel required to move the weight. Clean out what you don’t need. Also keep your car clean, mud and dirt on the undercarriage can add a significant amount of weight slowing you down and requiring additional fuel burn to accomplish the same mission.
- Should i pay to have nitrogen put in my tires ?
Basically, there is very little (if anything) to gain by paying to have nitrogen inflated into your passenger car or light truck tires.
Here's Why:
It’s simple, the air we breathe consists of 78.08% nitrogen, 20.95% oxygen, plus very small amounts of other gases like argon, carbon dioxide and hydrogen. The best nitrogen generators that are readily available to the auto industry, produce 95% pure nitrogen. The best fill that you are likely to receive is 95% pure nitrogen and this assumes that all of the previous air was properly purged and replaced with nitrogen. Nitrogen is used in full race tire inflations and can be beneficial in the aviation industry. You MAY, and I emphasize the word may, notice slightly less pressure swing during the cooler months, that can turn your TPMS (Tire Pressure Monitoring System) light on, but given the facts above, I would bet against it. This service is simply designed to separate you from your money and I would advise against the “Investment”.
Here's Why:
It’s simple, the air we breathe consists of 78.08% nitrogen, 20.95% oxygen, plus very small amounts of other gases like argon, carbon dioxide and hydrogen. The best nitrogen generators that are readily available to the auto industry, produce 95% pure nitrogen. The best fill that you are likely to receive is 95% pure nitrogen and this assumes that all of the previous air was properly purged and replaced with nitrogen. Nitrogen is used in full race tire inflations and can be beneficial in the aviation industry. You MAY, and I emphasize the word may, notice slightly less pressure swing during the cooler months, that can turn your TPMS (Tire Pressure Monitoring System) light on, but given the facts above, I would bet against it. This service is simply designed to separate you from your money and I would advise against the “Investment”.
